As
party season kicks off, we can always expect a little extra sparkle in
our wardrobes. But over the past few months, you may have noticed that
glitter has swept fashion into a flurry of excess.
It
may be true that trends are recycled every 20 years, but the grunge
attitude and minimalism of the '90s has dominated the industry for so
long. So why has the color, camp, and extroversion of the '80s finally
made it's way back into the zeitgeist?
“At
a time when the global political climate is fractious, there’s comfort
in a certain kind of nostalgia," Katie Smith, retail analysis and
insights director at Edited, a fashion and retail technology company,
explains. "The '80s were a time of economic boom, when fashion and
lifestyles were fast and frivolous. With millennials delaying home
purchases and starting families, they have disposable income which
revisits some of that '80s hedonism. The '80s are somewhat akin to pure
escapism from the harsher realities of life.”
And really, who embodies the maximalism of the decade more than Elton
John? Since the '70s, the singer has taken stage costumes to new
heights, with legendary costume designer Bob Mackie (a.k.a. The Sultan
of Sequins) behind many of his most memorable pieces. Whether it’s the
fringed rhinestone jacket and pink geometric sunglasses he wore when
performing at Madison Square Garden in 1986, the star-spangled velvet
jacket (with matching earrings) when on stage in Sydney the same year,
or the wide-lapeled brocade duster coat he wore around Hollywood in ‘87,
John championed outlandish and extraordinary dressing throughout the
era.
But how does the musician’s vivacity translate today? One look through Gucci’s spring 2018 offering
and you’ll see how creative director Alessandro Michele has made the
decade’s euphoric aesthetic both nostalgic and contemporary. The brand’s
iridescent jumpsuit emblazoned with color-pop musical notes? It’s Elton
John on stage 30 years ago. According to Vogue,
Michele drew inspiration from his friend Elton’s costume archives, with
more than one look a reference to recognizable pieces worn by the icon.
The designer even embroidered John's initials onto the back of jackets
and T-shirts. Sequins dominated the 108-look collection, with a
kaleidoscope of color glistening down the catwalk — ‘80s hedonism
indeed.
Gucci
isn't the only delivering the exuberance of the ‘80s sequin into 2017,
either. Michael Halpern, the London-based Central Saint Martins
graduate, has been championed by everyone from Donatella Versace to
Sarah Mower for his shimmery pieces. Sure, he may draw inspiration from
Studio 54’s ‘70s heyday, but styled with a pink satin jacket with
razor-sharp shoulders (as it is in his fall '17 lookbook, it’s the ‘80s
through and through.
“We've
seen a real return to glamour with a revival of sequins and sparkle
from brands such as Halpern, Attico, Osman, and DVF,” Natalie Kingham,
buying director at MatchesFashion.com, notes. “There has also been an
emergence of luxurious fabrics such as jacquard and brocade in metallic,
or with lustrous accents from designers such as Gucci, Peter Pilotto,
Carl Kapp, and Rochas.” Reiterating Smith’s point about escapism,
Kingham advises buying into the fantasy and frivolity of the decade:
“Investing in luxurious clothing doesn’t always need to be about simple
timeless pieces. There is something decadent and glamorous about
investing in a strong sequin look from Michael Halpern to cheer yourself
up and add some flamboyance to your wardrobe.”
Fast-fashion
is tapping into the decade of decadence, too. By analyzing retail
trends, Smith can measure the growth in demand for ‘80s pieces: “Ruffled
items are up a stunning 181% this fall compared to last, whether it’s
down the sleeves of a sweater or blouse, across the hem of a skirt, or
on the neckline of a jumpsuit. One-sleeved and asymmetric ruffled styles
pack the most '80s punch,” she says. “Exaggerated sleeves were popular
through the summer and returned during autumn on statement jumpers in
bold poster paint palettes. We’re seeing dolman, batwing, and lantern
sleeves, which, when paired with an oversized silhouette or a dramatic
turtleneck, look like they stepped straight out of the '80s.”
ASOS,
for example, has embraced the return of the decade, and is going
all-out for party season. “Chandelier earrings, power shoulders and
cocktail dresses are the perfect way to celebrate the holidays,” ASOS
womenswear head of design, Sian Ryan, says. “The '80s oozes glamour and
decadence...exaggerated shoulders and sleeves, metallic fabrications,
dramatic embellishments and silhouettes — all of these elements
encompass the party.” Her advice on styling the trend? “Mix it up, don’t
be too literal, and have fun with luxe fabrics and elaborate
silhouettes. Enjoy the opulence, it’s the holiday season, after all!”
And
while sparkles may be perfectly suited for holiday season, the '80s
aren't going away once the festivities have come and gone. “While the
'80s trend has had a strong impact over the last couple of years, it’s
too strong an aesthetic to have an enduring influence on fashion,” Smith
notes. “However, next season will certainly still be influenced by the
'80s, as the spring '18 collections have attested.” Whether you go for
Princess Diana-inspired sports casual with pearls and cycling shorts at
the ready, or go all-out-Elton John with glitzy and glamorous hedonism,
either way, it’s time to flash back to the '80s.
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